What Is a Pea Coat? Leather vs Wool and How to Wear It

Short answer: a pea coat is a short, double-breasted coat with wide lapels, a snug cut and vertical pockets, traditionally made of wool and rooted in naval wear. A leather version is heavier than wool and blocks wind better, but it does not replace a proper rain coat.

The pea coat is one of the simplest coats to wear because it hits the hip, layers over a sweater and goes with almost everything. Here is what defines it, how leather and wool versions compare, and how to choose the right size.

What makes a pea coat a pea coat

• Double-breasted front with two rows of buttons.
• Short length, ending around the hip or upper thigh.
• Wide, structured lapels that can be turned up against the wind.
• Vertical slash pockets for the hands, often with a second set of flap pockets.
• Snug, tailored shoulders.

Where it comes from

The pea coat is linked with sailors, who wore a short, heavy, double-breasted wool coat for cold, wet work at sea. Navies in Europe and the United States used versions of it, and where the name comes from is still debated. The cut stayed short so it would not hamper movement, and the wide lapels could be turned up around the neck. Today, the coat is a menswear and womenswear staple.

Wool versus leather pea coat

A leather pea coat looks more dressed up and gets better with age. Wool is easier to live with. If you choose leather, check the lining and ask what warmth it gives before relying on it in deep cold.

Pea coat versus car coat versus trench coat

For the other two, read about a heritage brown leather car coat and choosing a leather trench coat for daily use. If you want a long coat made to your size, look at our custom trench coats.

Fit

• Shoulders: the seam sits at the edge of your shoulder. Too wide looks sloppy, too narrow restricts movement.
• Chest: allows a sweater underneath. Button up and cross your arms to test.
• Length: ends at the hip or upper thigh. A longer coat drifts toward a car coat.
• Sleeves: reach the wrist bone, with enough length that a sweater cuff does not show a gap.

Leather does not stretch like wool, so size for the thickest layer you will wear. Use the size chart, and measure your chest over the sweater you would wear. Many pea coats run slim, so if you are between sizes, choose Custom Size.

How to wear it

For men

• Dark jeans, a knit sweater and boots.
• Chinos, an oxford shirt and leather shoes.
• A turtleneck with wool trousers.

For women

• A leather pea coat over a knit dress and tall boots.
• Slim black trousers, a fine sweater and ankle boots.
• Jeans, a plain tee and sneakers for a relaxed look.

Leather pea coats in our range

You can browse leather pea coats for women in our women's leather peacoats, including a black leather belted peacoat and a brown leather peacoat. We also make men's leather pea coats to order; see men's leather coats. Our coats are not waterproof, so wear a rain layer over them in wet weather. Read the product page for the lining and details.

Care and storage

• Hang it on a wide, shaped hanger so the shoulders and lapels keep their form.
• Wipe leather with a soft damp cloth, and let it dry in the air, away from heat.
• Condition lightly once or twice a season.
• Do not crush the lapels in a tight closet or garment bag. Use a breathable bag.
• If it gets wet, blot, do not rub, and dry it slowly.

Our guides on the enduring style of leather coats and cleaning a leather jacket help with the details.

Who should skip a leather pea coat

If you want something light for mild weather, a leather pea coat is probably too heavy. If you spend long periods outdoors in wet weather, a wool coat with a waterproof finish or a technical shell will serve better. And if you need a coat that goes over a suit jacket, a longer cut such as a trench or overcoat leaves more room. A pea coat is at its best as a layering coat for cold, dry days.

Choosing a color

Black is the safest choice and works with almost everything. Brown reads warmer and more casual, and it pairs well with denim and earth tones. Dark navy is traditional in wool, but in leather, black and brown are far more common. If you wear mostly dark clothes, brown adds contrast. If your wardrobe leans neutral and light, black gives the coat a clear role.

Price and longevity

A leather pea coat costs more than a wool one, but good leather can last many years if it is stored and conditioned properly. Look at the construction: even stitching, a solid lining, strong buttons and stitched buttonholes tell you more than a label does.

FAQs

Is a pea coat warm enough for winter?

Wool pea coats are warm in cold weather. A leather one blocks wind but relies on its lining for warmth, so check the product details. In very cold weather, add layers.

What is the difference between a pea coat and a trench coat?

A pea coat is short and heavy, usually wool, while a trench coat is longer, lighter and belted.

What length should a pea coat be?

Hip to upper thigh. Longer than that, and it becomes closer to a car coat.

Can a leather pea coat handle rain?

Light rain, often. Leather is not waterproof, and we do not offer a rain liner, so wear a rain layer over it in a downpour and dry the coat slowly if it gets wet.

Do pea coats run small?

Many are cut slim. Measure over your thickest layer and check the size chart.

Browse men's leather coats or the women's leather peacoats.